First, the tactical training of the ultimate climbing ability
The so-called tactics refers to the strategy of fully playing the players' ability within a reasonable range so as to achieve a certain goal, which is different from the psychological potential. The reason why the red point series is higher than the on-sight is that the former can find out the most appropriate climbing skills, rhythm and point by constantly practicing, correcting and avoiding the previous mistakes. . The tactical training of the ultimate climbing ability is now described as follows:
(1) Route selection: When raising the extreme climbing scale, many climbers will often try to go far beyond their own ability. This too impatient approach will not only take time but will also kill the progress space. Since the ultimate climbing ability is based on the elimination of the lack of movement, and therefore exertion of physical strength and skills, it is recommended that the maximum climbing number be added to the first level and the ultimate climbing training.
(B) The elimination of the lack of a single action: After deciding to climb the route, it is followed by solving different difficulties. The completion of each action depends on the climber's understanding of the movement and the physical condition. When you first try, you can only observe the direction and position of the point and climb the experience. Due to limited knowledge, it may inevitably consume unnecessary power, but it can be more labor-saving after adjusting the posture and finding a rest point. Second, with the help of ropes, physical variables can be eliminated and skills can be fully utilized.
(c) Combination of several actions: After you have familiarized yourself with individual movement techniques, you must combine them. The key points are as follows:
1. Disperse fatigue: The reason why the route is difficult is often due to exhaustion of specific muscles. If fatigue is divided among different muscle groups, muscle strength can be most effectively exerted, and the ultimate climbing characteristic is that the most labor-saving climbing posture can be conceived in advance. To put things in perspective, the simplest grip is not necessarily the most labor-saving, because when a series of actions is combined, a fixed grip will quickly exhaust a single muscle group. For example, if the route characteristic is to continuously use the first knuckle leading edge to clamp the crimp, an open grip can be taken in the first half of the climb to reserve the required muscle strength for the second half of the route. In addition, there are several techniques for decentralized fatigue: (1) exchange and use different fingers to hold points; (2) thumb output to relieve the rest of the four-finger load; (3) hold the bumps with the outer edge of the palm to temporarily rest the fingers (4) Climbing a simple road section in a dynamic posture to reserve the muscle force required for static support movements; (5) Move the center of gravity to the feet to temporarily ease the arms. In short, it is necessary to fully consider and configure the power of the entire route, and set aside physical strength on the road ahead of the difficulties.
2. Decide on the timing of hanging buckles and wiping powder: In terms of hanging buckles, you should choose the best point, even if the upper body has exceeded the fixed point. Because snapping the cord into the shackle at too low a position, it is not only time-consuming to draw a string (especially when the rope is slower by the sure person), but if you let go of it, the fall distance will be even more impressive. As for the powder, you should choose the most balanced and relaxed posture, so that the muscles get real comfort.
3. Dispel the fear of pioneering climbing: The difference between the fixed point above and the Pioneer climbing is the fear of falling. In order to prevent it from becoming a limitation of climbing ability, the action of hanging buckles can be practiced in advance at each fixed point.
(4) Exclusion of missing continuous action: After eliminating a single difficulty, it is followed by a series of actions. However, coherent action from the starting point is not the most effective way. Assuming that the difficulty is evenly distributed across the entire route, physical strength will decrease with height. In the case of diminishing physical strength, skills are difficult to play, so it is necessary to aggravate the higher point of climbing skill training. In other words, we should consider the question from the perspective of "Why can't we climb the route?" rather than "How high can it climb before it falls?" The following two principles must be followed when practicing: Coordinate the movement gradually from the height to the lower position, instead of starting from the starting point each time; strengthen the exercises for special difficulties. In short, do not overestimate your abilities when you train, and adopt a more conservative approach to avoid laborious and time consuming.
(5) Thinking training: The climbing action is continuous. The purpose of thinking training is to review and integrate previous exercises in the brain so as to improve the fluency of the movement. First, convert different actions into a series of keywords to facilitate memory, such as sideways, dynamics, etc. Then, if he is hesitant about a certain movement during meditation, he must go back to practice on the rock wall and dissolve it. Finally, you can fantasize yourself as an observer and repeatedly observe and remember your climbing posture in fast motion or slow motion.
Second, the first climbing ability tactical training
The focus of the training of the first climbing ability is the concentration of attention. Only full attention can be given to the full exertion of physical strength and skills within a limited time. Because there is only one chance, the tactics are different from the extreme climbing training. In focusing attention, it can be divided into two perspectives: macroscopic and microscopic. When climbing simple sections, it is less necessary to gather all attention. At this time, macro angles can be taken and the follow-up action can be considered or the physical configuration of the entire route can be considered. However, on difficult roads, we must adopt a microscopic perspective and concentrate on breaking the bottleneck of physical strength and skills.
(I) Macro-thinking: The following self-assessments can be done before climbing: 1. How long is the route? 2. Is there a break point in the middle to segment the route? 3. What kind of pace should be adopted to climb these sections? 4. When is the quick buckle more appropriate? 5. Is there any trap or error in the route? In addition, the other focus of the first climbing ability is the fatigue dispersion techniques. In order to be able to remove lactic acid and restore strength by resting during the hardening of muscles, it is necessary to grasp the time of exhaustion. To this end, we should look at the following sections from a macro perspective, in order to change the grip to delay the arrival of fatigue, such as: alternating use of different fingers or with the thumb to share the load of the four fingers.
(B) Micro-thinking: However, when climbing difficult roads, micro-thinking must be used instead of macro-thinking. At this point, whether the muscle mobilization or skill display is at the critical point, the climber can only break through the bottleneck. At this critical moment, we must completely ignore the rope, ensure or fall fear and other factors, and have good self-control and crisis management capabilities. The so-called self-control is the degree of understanding of one's physical fitness. In the case of muscle sclerosis, for example, a master can understand this warning message calmly because he understands his own limit; but for a novice, he may interpret it as a precursor to a fall. As for crisis management capability, it refers to the responsiveness of crisis. Since this moment's persistence is the indicator of the first ascent ability, how to spur the accomplishment of climbing is critical. Among them, participating in the competition can be said to be the best training method for microscopic thinking. As a result of the game, even if it is not possible to complete the climb, the difference in one step may be entirely new to the ranking. Therefore, even if the players are exhausted, they will try to climb one more point for good results, so as to realize their potential and eliminate the remaining negative factors.
(C) the first climbing ability training: Since the first climbing ability depends on the reaction force and judgment, only climbing more new routes can progress. Although climbing a fixed route can build muscle strength, it will greatly reduce the observation ability of the route because you are familiar with climbing postures and do not need to worry about thinking. For this reason, it is necessary to constantly change the rock climbing site and rock quality and avoid using specific climbing postures and techniques. In addition, speed climbing or random pointing training can also enhance the player's reaction and judgment.
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